I-36 Maintenance Page

This page is designed to hold information about the care and maintenance of major components of the Islander 36. This page will generally include information about the hull, engine, mast rig, and sails. For information about other systems and things people have added to their individual boats, try the Gadgets & Stuff page. We will continue to add information as a reference guide, so please send your contributions to: I-36 Webmaster, Rick Van Mell

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Hull Seam Cracks

In 1997, my surveyor pointed out a hairline crack in the gel coat at the bow running most of the way down. IHe thought these boats were built in two halves and then put together. He recommends grinding down and reglassing - but that makes it almost impossible to exactly match the gel coat. If I paint the hull one of these years I may do that. Another alternative (which I have not discussed with surveyor or yard) would be to do the reinforcing on the inside of the hull down to the waterline or as far as you can reach in the chain locker, then continue on down on the outside below the water line where you could easily cover the reinforced area with bottom paint.


From Matt Mikkelborg, 10/25/98 04:10:03 AM GMT

I just spent the day helping a friend on his 36 hauled out for a bottom job. I have an older Islander 32, also built in a two piece mold. I have the same cracking on the centerline described on your web page. The author of the letter should not be too concerned, as his cracks are not structural. Nor is his boat built in two pieces as implied in the note. The mold is in two halves by necessity to enable the removal of the finished hull. The mold is prepared, cleaned, waxed and gel coated with the two halves separated to ease the process. The mold is then mated and bolted together before the laminations begin, resulting in the solid, one piece, strong, thing of beauty Alan Gurney envisioned.

The cracking is in the flashing or extruded bit of gelcoat paste smeared on the flanges of the mold halves at joining. It is put there to ensure against any voids on the centerline of the finished part.(no mold has a perfectly fitted joint) Upon removal of the finished hull from the split mold this flashing is trimmed with a file or abrasive and polished to match the hull. The gelcoat paste is thicker than the thin uniform coating on the surrounding parts, and has little structural strength. It doesn't age as gracefully as the thinner gelcoat around it and eventually cracks and sometimes falls out in chunks. It is mainly a cosmetic problem, although it can provide an avenue for water penetration to the laminate. Some builders go to the trouble of gelcoating the flashing seam after removal from the mold. This will be evident down the road when a swath of gelcoat on the centerline will age differently and show this non molded application.

Matt Mikkelborg, mjmikkel@telebyte.com

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Windows

In 1991 we ordered new larger-size windows from Go Industries for our 1972 Islander 36 - because the old ones were leaking around the edges and we wanted the larger ones later Islanders had. Those new windows have crazed so much that it is very difficult to see through them any more, while the original smaller ones are still quite clear. I've been unable to track down the present whereabouts of Go Industries. Does anyone know where they have gone? I'd appreciate any help I can get.

Margo M Callaghan, margohpl@juno.com (ps "Bokonon" is still in Panama, at Pedro Miguel Boat Club, but we are preparing to finish our transit and head North. Or East. Soon.)

Dear Margo and other Owners:

The old Go Industries was acquired by Mark Plastics. They provide the fixed ports and also the headliners (at least they did). I got both the fixed ports and headliner in 1978 and put them in Vanishing Animal with the help of my crew. 20 years later, the headliner is doing fine, and there are only "normal" scratches on the ports. Their address is:

Mark Plastics
369 East Harrison Street, Unit G
Corona, California 91719
909-735-7705 Phone
909-735-0701 Fax

Let them know the Islander Association is alive and well, and counting on them for the next 25 years!

Rick

Margo,

Mark Plastics also makes forward hatches, early curved lip & late 78 flatter style. Also engine instrument housing/cover for the I-36.

James W. Joubert, jimjoubert@CS.com



Here's some good info from Greg Thomsen who lives in Seattle.
Tuesday, February 19, 2002 7:28 PM

I just received your latest newsletter with yet two more ideas regarding leaking windows. I've had three leaks - all in the larger, fixed windows. In finding a solution, I carried one of my windows in to an auto glass shop, reasoning that they have experience working on recreational vehicles, and the originals on my boat looked very much to me like RV windows.

Their recommendation was to use glazing tape (a double sided butyl tape used in the glazing trades) under the outside flange and to run a thin bead of good-quality silicone around the outside flange joint - run into the seam with the end of a finger. It helps to mask off the cabin trunk with tape, because the silicone is difficult to clean up and eventually makes the gelcoat look stained.

Previous owners had used the 'more-is-better' approach. I found applications of silicone, geocel, and possibly 5200 filling the gap between the inside of the cabin trunk and the window frame. They still leaked, and it took me about two hours per window to reef out the old goo. My repair re-used the original windows, and they're dry after a Seattle spring, fall and winter, and I believe I stand a better-than-even chance of getting them apart again should they need servicing in the future.

Greg Thomsen
Freya


November 16, 2002

Phillipe,

I will preface my suggestion with the comment that not all windows are original, so be careful as you go forward.

Most often the windows are made to "sandwich" the cabin trunk between two parts - the flange on the outside being drawn tight by screwing down the ring on the inside. The white stuff is the caulking that actually makes the seal, and is usually intended to flex a little bit as the boat flexes from various loads. Over time the original caulking can get brittle and crack, allowing water to penetrate either or both the inside of the cabin and the edge structure around the windows. Sometimes there is at least delamination of the interior wood veneer, and sometimes there is more serious trouble - like dry rot around the windows.

With luck (and you may have already gone there), carefully working a putty knife or utility knife around the window will loosen the original caulk and the window will simply "pop" out. Most folks seem to have chosen to replace the windows with new ones rather than try to scrape off the old caulk and rebed the old ones.

When I got my boat in 1978, several of the windows had leaked and the inside teak was discolored in many places. (My boat is a 1973 model.) I removed both the fixed and opening windows on both sides, and also the long hand rails on both sides. Then I sanded down the inside and used contact cement to lay in a mahogany veneer, about 1/16" or 1/32" thick. Then I put in all new windows (the fixed windows came from what was then Go Industries and is now Mark Plastics) and replaced the hand rails. Now, 25 years later, I have one small area where the laminate has blistered, apparently from a small leak at one window, but the rest is still holding up OK. I also replaced the headliner as part of the project, and it looks just fine throughout.

Hope that helps.

Clear Sailing & Happy Thanksgiving,
Rick

Masiee masiee@worldnet.att.net

Rick,

Many thanks for your e mail, I now can understand the compasition of the windows. Also it explain why, since I removed the inside plastic ring, it leaks more.

Again thanks to your original e mail, I have called Mark plastics and was quite pleased to find out that they still have replacement windows, also most of the plastic trims im the cockpit as well as the engine control box and finally the forward hatch cover, (mine is cracked nesr the screw perforations). His prices appear to be reasonable compared to what I paid for opening ports, $140.00 per window.

Due to weather conditions I shall wait until spring to handle the problem, most likely I will replace the windows rather than take a chance on the old ones which may have defects due to age, 22 years is a bit old for this type of plastic.

Again thank you and good sailing,
Philippe

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Stantions

I also have a couple of maintenance questions for the fleet.

1. The survey of Caledonia revealed that she has leaked beneath the stanchions. I need to take them off, scrape the surfaces clean, let the core dry, then re pooky them back in place. I didn't consider that a problem to fix till I found out that Islander carefully did not put zippers on the headliner where the stanchions come through the deck. Are there any clever ways to avoid taking down the headliner at those points and doing a lousy job of replacing it?

2. I am also about to replace the Bomar self draining ports since they have chunks out of the plastic rim which theoretically prevents the rain water from getting in. My teak veneer is bubbling. I propose to cut it horizontally through the veneer, then glue it to the hard surface beneath. Does anyone have any experience with this process? Henry Neil, HenryNeil@aol.com

There is no response yet. 1/11/99

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Engines

November 28, 1998 7:38 AM

We just returned to "Bokonon" at the Pedro Miguel Boat Club in Panama and our Palmer gas engine quit - this time we think for good. We need to replace our Palmer with a diesel and would like to know what other Islander owners have done - size, brand, type...and what kind of prop they use. We have a 3 blade cruising prop.

We'd appreciate any advice or information you could send us.

Thanks, Herb & Margo, margohpl@hotmail.com

Margo:

We purchased "Ophira" 5 yrs ago. She had an Atomic 4 that was so rusted out I was fearful about just starting it. We installed a Yanmar 3gm30f, which puts out 27hp. It is a 3 cyl and weighs a lot less than the Atomic 4. We had to raise the engine bed and narrow it to mount the engine. It fits with tons of room to spare. We use a 3 bladed 13 or 14 in 10 pitch prop and power at 6.5 knots at 2800 rpm. The Yanmar is a 3600 rpm motor and is rated for continuous output at 3400rpm.Several other members have re-powered with Yanmars. Walt Levison just re-powered but I can't remember which motor he installed. I think you will get several responses as this gets passed along.

Fair Winds, Gary Salvo

Margo,

Atomic 4s have been great engines (had one on a C&C 39 for 5 years), and have the advantage of being rather user friendly for an owner to fix in many places around the world.

That said, most of the replacements have been with diesels, and Yanmars of various sizes seem to be the most common.

Many Islanders have the 4 cylinder Perkins 4-107 or 4-108. These are heavier engines rated around 47 hp. I had our Perkins overhauled by the yard about 20 months ago because it was leaking oil at the aft bearing. The result was less than what I expected, and had I known that it was going to take over 2 months to get back to an almost acceptable performance, I would have gone with a rebuilt or new engine rather than the overhaul.

If you would like to check out a Perkins alternative, their US headquarters is:

Perkins Power Corp.
55 Industrial Loop North
Orange Park, Florida 32073
Tel: 904-278-9919
Fax: 904-278-8088


The Service Manager was Todd Brown in 1997 (though you probably want a sales contact.) The Perkins people were most helpful and professional - the problems were with the local yard.

Hope this is of some help. Please keep us posted on your project so we can share your success with other owners.

Clear Sailing, Rick

Margo,

Regards the engine, I know of three that have been replaced in the last 3 years with Yanmar 3GM30's(27hp@3600)...work just great as far as we are concerned. If you have the money you might go to the next size up on the Yanmar(35hp). In 98, Walt Levison at: wslevison@aol.com may have installed a Universal. You might e/m him about his, and I think he also installed a martec prop too.

Skipper Wall, nvsnowflower@cs.com

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Rudder Post Leaks

07/06/98 03:09:07 AM GMT

I would like to pass along an overdue thank you to Bruce Hallberg, Skipper Wall, Roger Milligan, Don Schumacher, Harry Farrell, and Timm Carpenter for the information you provided to me regarding the rudder post packing on the I-36. I would also like to pass this information along to as many of you as possible in case you encounter a similar problem in the future.

Shortly after returning to the water following eleven weeks in the boat yard, my 1978 I-36 began to leak around the rudder post primarily while under power. Not having replaced the packing in the previous ten years that I had owned the boat, I suspected it was probably time, as was suggested by several of you. I made an initial attempt to disassemble the packing gland held together by four bronze bolts but was thwarted in my efforts when I could remove only one of the bolts due to the restricted vertical clearance created by the location of the steering quadrant immediately above the packing gland.

I then enlisted the services of the Mariner Boat Yard and working with one of their mechanics, with me lying under the stern seats (of course), we disassembled the steering quadrant, which provided full and easy access the packing gland. From that point it was simply a matter of removing the four bolts, sliding the top ring upward, removing and replacing the old packing in both the top and bottom rings, and completing the reassembly. The whole job took about an hour and a half excluding the time to obtain the packing material, the exact dimensions of which I regret to say I do not recall. The significant point in the process was the necessity of the removal of the steering quadrant. I don't know if this would be required in all I-36's but if the clearance to remove the bolts isn't there, then it probably is.

Thanks again for all your helpful information and hope to see as many of you as possible on Nov. 14th at the Golden Gate Yacht Club in San Francisco.

Happy sailing, Art Fowler, BETZENART@aol.com(Fowler)

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Rudder Bearing

10/26/98 02:33:18 PM GMT

I have just purchased a 1974 Islander 36. While getting it ready for some new bottom paint I noticed that the bronze bearing at the bottom of the rudder has suffered from electrolysis and needs to be replaced. Do you know where I might find a new one? Please let me know.

Thank you, Ron Seevers, Poulsbo, WA, Ph # (360) 779-4010 , RSeevers@SPB.SWFPAC.NAVY.MIL

Re your bronze bearing at the bottom of the skeg:.
Suggest you call Svendsen's Boatworks in Alameda Ca. (510-522-2886)..talk to Rick.... They have done lots of work on Islander 36's...They used to commission them for the main dealer in the SFO Bay years ago. It seems I remember talking to them (maybe not him) about where they would do such work and they mentioned that they knew of someone in your state of WA.

Skipper Wall, "SnowFlower", nvsnowflower@cs.com

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Rig Tuning

Larry Gotch asked if there was a correct tension setting for the shrouds.

You've asked a good question. I don't have an answer in specific pounds for the shrouds, but I have set the backstay gauge at 2,000 pounds for going upwind (back down to 1,200 off the wind or at rest.) There is probably a wide range of pounds depending on whether you have rod or wire rigging, and what size rigging, and what material.

Over many years of setting up masts, my technique has been to, first, loosely put the spar in the boat.

Adjust the fore and aft rake with the forestay and backstay. I generally like the mast on our Islander within an inch of vertical when there is about 1,000 pounds on the backstay. Checking vertical is easy - just hang a weight on the main halyard so it hangs just above the boom. Then measure the distance from the halyard to the mast.

Next, use the main halyard to see if the top of the spar is over the center of the boat. A rough approximation is if the weight on the main halyard is hanging directly over the boom. (There will be enough wind, wave or just you walking around to make it obvious this is not precise.) Alignment is done (assuming a wire, or no-stretch halyard) by holding it down to the main chainplate on each side to see that it is the same length. (If the halyard doesn't reach the deck, lash on a metal tape measure, which also makes it easy to measure to an eighth of an inch.) Adjust the main shrouds until the halyard measures exactly same to port and starboard chainplates. This will center the top aloft. Take up two or three more full turns on both of the main shrouds. Be careful and make the turns exactly, it's easy to confuse half turns with full turns. Then tighten the intermediates and lowers to hand tight. They should be just slightly looser than the main shrouds.

The next step may seem rather funny, but it does work. Rock the boat. Yes, stand at the centerline, step out to one side grabbing the rigging and throwing your weight outboard like you might on a swing. Then, as the boat moves a little your way, time your return inboard just as the top of the mast starts back to center. But continue on across the boat, grabbing the opposite rigging and hanging out there to accelerate the roll. (Feet on the cabin top edge, hands on the main shroud.) Repeat this process about 5-8 times until there is a good roll going. (This is best done in flat water tied to a mooring or just drifting - it won't work with tight dock lines.)

Now for the value of this caper. Immediately lay your head along the aft side of the spar, sight up along the aft edge and watch the shape as the boat takes up at the end of the roll. If the top of the mast seems to fall away in a curve to leeward, check to be sure that it happens equally on each side. If it does, the first adjustment would be to tighten the upper shrouds, but be sure to tighten both sides the same amount to preserve the centering of the top. If the shape is different on each roll, it is likely that the lowers are tighter on one side than the other. Adjust the lowers so the shape is the same on both sides, then tighten the uppers. If the middle of the mast falls to leeward, tighten the lowers. If the top of the mast still appears to fall off to leeward, you may have tightened a lower excessively on one side. The Islander has a design weakness in that the aft lower is only fastened to the deck, rather than being connected to a bulkhead which transmits load to the whole hull structure. Do the primary lower adjustments with the forward lower, keeping the aft lower slightly looser. (Some boats have been modified to either install a bulkhead below the aft lowers, or rigged a turnbuckle and wire to a pad glassed to the hull behind the bunk (starboard) and cabinet (port).

Repeat the process several times until the mast appears to remain straight on rolls to port and starboard.

The last step is going sailing upwind in a moderate breeze - say 10-12 knots. If the leeward rigging is loose, tighten to take out the slack, counting the turns for each shroud. Then tack and make the same adjustment on the other side. While doing this, again check that the mast remains straight looking up the back side of the mast. Repeat several times, and check again under 15-18 knot conditions and you should have a good set. This method will eventually achieve a tension which is sufficient to keep the mast aligned when under sail - the goal of a good set. Since this load is what the boat experiences under sail, it should not be too much to strain the boat or the rig.

I hope this is of some help. I'd be happy to hear any other opinions on the subject.

Clear Sailing, Rick Van Mell, vanmells@ix.netcom.com

The age of rigging is another subject for discussion. The surveyors seem to be leaning toward replacement after 8-10 years. A number of the boats have original rigging – pushing 20-25 years. There is no "correct" answer, since wear and tear depend a lot on the type of sailing the boat has seen and the water it’s been sailed in. However, if your rigging is beyond ten years old, keep a very close eye on its condition. Check for hairline cracks at all the fittings. If you find any broken strands, don’t procrastinate!

Our Secretary, Gary Salvo, is going through the rerig/repaint process right now (Jan ’98), complete with changing over to all-line halyards. If interested, contact him at grsalvo@pacbell.net.

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Sunk Boat

May 18, 1998 8:31 AM

I'm working on a1974 36 that went down at the dock. The sink drain line corroded off. It is powered by a Perkins diesel. I need to replace the gauges, instruments, some wiring, etc. Is there such a thing as a wiring diagram for the vessel, or is each one done individually? I am really quite ignorant about this vessel, but would like to learn more.

I picked it up for $4000 and it looks to be in good shape considering it was under water for a day and a half.

Thanks for your time, Harry, HLodholm@aol.com

To Harry:

I've got a '73 I-36, and though she's not been underwater, I've replaced many gauges over the years. Skipper Wall (nvsnowflower@cs.com) has a set of prints which show a diagram of the original wiring standards, but each engine has a little different setup, and as things are added there is likely to be spaghetti anywhere.

I did find that some of the original fittings, like the overhead lights and the running lights, were spliced in with pressure crimped connectors. Over the years they got wet and corroded inside and put a large resistance in the system to the point of dimming lights, running down batteries, etc. Yet - they look strong and secure from the outside.

Most marine stores carry stock gauges which should work on the Perkins (I have one and they work fine.) I'd suggest drawing up your own wiring diagram from the wires in place, then measure and replace them all. The wire cost is really rather low, but there are hours of (pleasure) time putting them in. The benefit of this is that you will know every one by its first name and can quickly find any trouble in the middle of the night. If you're not quite that ambitious, try replacing just the gauge and see if the original wiring will do the trick.

By the way, twice I had water back up into the exhaust of the engine - to the point where it sounded like a major hammer if you tried the starter. A mechanic taught me how to take a large wrench on the nut on the forward end of the engine and put pressure to very slowly turn it by hand. This slowly squeezes any water out of the cylinders past the rings. When you can turn the crankshaft this way relatively easily all the way around, go ahead and change the oil to get the water out of the inside, then fire up and cross your fingers. I thought sure, twice, that the engine was a gonner. But, 20 years later, it's still running. (Have you drained & dried the fuel tank? - There are folks around here who will come to the boat and "polish" your fuel tank by pumping in out, through a filter and circulate it until it's clean (or just gone!))

I've also replaced all of the through hull fittings - most recently about 6-7 years ago. I've gone to bronze ball values you can get at a very good hardware store - significantly less expensive than a marine store.

You've probably got quite a long list of other things which needed replacement or major cleaning - from headliner to cushions, electronics and sails. Mark Plastics is a source of fixed windows if they are on your list. 909-735-7705

While it is daunting, it could also be a great opportunity to spend some money on new toys. Our members would be happy to hear your story, so we hope you stay in touch and join up.

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Steering Cables

Monday, July 27, 1998 11:56 AM

I am not sure where to send a question regarding our Islander 36 ('74) steering problem but hope someone there may know some way to help. We had problems with the steering (the cable had jumped off the wheel and wrapped around a bolt due to the loosening of support bolts) that we were able to resolve but in the process the wheel now is 1/8th of a turn off of center when the rudder is amidships. We tried to remedy this with the bolts on the cable adjuster but to no avail--- the rudder and wheel alignment stays the same causing the boat to turn better to the left than to the right. Hope you have suggestions. fitzma@aol.com

Reply:

For many years in Chicago I made it a ritual every spring to crawl, no, stuff, myself into the starboard cockpit locker and inspect and grease the steering cables and the sheaves that lead up to the binnacle. Grease also got applied to the shaft outside the binnacle, and inside by removing the compass.

I assume you have replaced the sheave pins and all is back aligned and tightened.

You should be able to adjust the eyebolts on the quadrant on the rudder post to center the wheel. There should be double nuts on the eyebolts to lock them in place on the quadrant. I am assuming from your description that you have tried this and have reached a point where one eyebolt is flush up against the quadrant, yet the wheel is not centered. My suggestion is to loosen both eyebolts until the control cables are loose enough for you to remove the compass from the binnacle and move the bicycle chain a couple of teeth on the sprocket which is inside the binnacle on the shaft to the steering wheel. Then readjust the eyebolts and check the rudder and wheel alignment. Don't put the compass back on until you have it the way you like it. Tension on the cables should be snug but not too tight.

For the rest of you, one of the most insidious places to look for problems is to loosen the cables at the quadrant eyebolts, then remove the pins holding the sheaves at the bottom of the pedestal (yes, from that cramped position inside the cockpit locker) - it is very likely that the pins have started wearing through. This loosens the cables (a sure sign of wear) and increases the wear rate because there is no longer a full support on the center of the sheave. It probably takes ten years before there is significant wear in light day sailing, but if you carry a chute in heavy weather for one long offshore passage (2000 miles) you could get the same wear in two weeks. (One time we calculated that our 23 day Transatlantic passage was the total equivalent of ten years of 30 races a year in home waters.)

Hope this helps, Rick, vanmells@ix.netcom.com

Response Back to Rick

Thank you for the help---- we did the adjustments on the quadrant and removed the compass and lifted the cable under the compass and reset it all to center. We were disappointed to find that it made a very slight improvement and that we were still making a greater turn left than right. Had to pay for help (always a bad and humiliating turn of events) but cut the work time down considerably as we had done the relatively easier parts. They had to change the setting of the base of the quadrant by removing the bolts from it and turning it somehow---still not perfect but will work on it more when it is in drydock. I sure feel like I know much more about the steering system than I did before and appreciate the well worded assistance from you.

We sail on Lake Michigan out of Chicago (Monroe Harbor) and love our Islander.

Pat and Tom Fitzsimons, fitzma@aol.com

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Bilge Pumps

Another Bilge Pump Failure Or So It "Seamed"

After hearing about Rick Van Mell's discovery of an inoperative manual bilge pump on his I-36 and having read about the same problem occurring on Calypso, the boat featured in Practical Sailor, I decided it would be prudent to assess the operational capability of the manual pump installed on my 1978 Islander 36. My initial finding was that the pump was inoperative.

However after what seemed like an eternity of pumping, a small amount of water began to move through the pump, but it was far less than I believed the pump was capable of. My next discovery was noticing a small amount of water trickling down the suction side of the hose where it descends from its routing up into the starboard side of the inside of the cockpit combing.

The hose had actually failed along some of its seams that are created by the spiral wrapping type construction of that wire reinforced hose. hose-t.jpg - 1475 Bytes(Click to enlarge.) Great. Now I not only had a failed pump, but 28 feet of inch and a half hose that had to be replaced and routed through some blind voids and around some tight turns, something that a hose of that diameter just doesn't want to do. But replace it, I did, 20 feet on the suction side and 8 feet on exhaust side.

I purchased a rebuild kit for the pump, a Whale Gusher 8, Mk III, from West Marine, for $23.49. I then took the pump home to clean it up and rebuild it. Just for fun I decided to try the pump still in its original condition upon arrival at home. Much to my surprise, it pumped water seemingly ten times faster than when it was on the boat and at a rate that probably was close to what it was designed to do. As it turns out the failed seams in the hoses were allowing enough air into the suction line, that the pump was unable to develop sufficient prime to operate anywhere near its potential. The pump was actually in pretty good shape. The housing on this particular pump is plastic, and therefore had none of the corrosion problems Rick found on his earlier model, and as was found on Calypso. Although I probably didn't need to, I still went ahead and rebuilt the pump by replacing the two flapper valves and the respective O rings; all that's included in the kit.

Considering that the manual bilge pump is one of your most important pieces of emergency equipment, I feel a lot better knowing that mine is now back in working order. On a trip to the Petaluma River several years ago, the use of that pump was the only thing that kept one our I-36's afloat when it began taking on water through a "dripless" packing gland and the electric pump clogged up with mud and silt from the river. Be it the pump or the hoses, it would be wise to make sure that system works on your boat. You never know when you might need it.......Art Fowler BETZENART@aol.com

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Lead/Iron Keels

I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. My friend's 36 is an early model, I think. I was suprised to find the ballast package or keel was iron and not lead. Is this true of all later models? I seem to recall seeing 36's with lead keels being faired in yards over the years. He also needs a new rudder gudgeon or heel fitting. Is there still a source for these or does he need to go to a foundry and have one made? The last question is in regards to the rudders structure. His has several repairs that look like attempts to fix internal metal structures in the blade. Can anyone describe the method by which Islander reinforced the shaft and blade? In other words, what the guts of the rudder look like under the skin of glass and probably foam.

Thanks, Matt Mikkelborg, mjmikkel@telebyte.com

Dear Matt,

One of our San Francisco Bay area members, Bill Higdon, had the rudder gudgeon on his 1974 Islander-36 replaced by Svendsen's Boat Works in Alameda several years ago. I've forwarded your e-mail to him in hopes that he can relate his experience to you. I seem to think they did a new casting, and intended to hold on to the mold for future needs. Bill's e-mail address is wehigdon@aol.com . Incidentally Bill also has the iron keel. One other member that has the iron Keel is Frank Burkhart on his 1974 model. Frank can be reached at islandgi@ix.netcom.com.

Thanks for your info on the molding process of the I-36.

Good Luck. Art Fowler BETZENART@aol.com

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