From: Gordon D Ellis gdellisjr@ft.newyorklife.com

Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 12:11 PM
Subject: Velvet Drive In-line Transmission

Gary, I again am in need of help/Information. I have a '77 Islander 36 with a Perkins 4.108 with a In-Line Velvet Drive Transmission . My question is ...If the transmission needs to be rebuilt does the engine need to be pulled in order to remove it.

Any advice is welcome!!!!

Thanks, Gordon, S/Y Day Star

From: Bruce Hallberg hallberg@firedept.net

Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: Velvet Drive In-line Transmission

Hello Gordon.

After having an engine replaced many years ago, please do not fear the prospects. It only took about an hour to disconnect the wires and fuel lines and then the engine with trany attached are lifted up through the companionway....easy.

If you are in need of a replacement transmission. I have one. A friend gave it to me when he re-powered his Westsail 32 with a Perkins 4-108. He had the room to put a gear reducer and got a transmission with the reducer already on. As far as I know it should work just fine.

Good luck,
Bruce Hallberg
"Falcon"
Santa Cruz

From: Sorensen, John D. jsorensen@budbrown.com

Sent: Monday, December 03, 2001 12:53 PM
Subject: Engine Removal

I don't know about that engine and transmission combination, but we pulled the Yanmar 3GM30 and transmission out of my 1972 Islander in under 30 minutes. We raised it with the main halyard run through a block on a line from the end of the boom to adjust it forward and backward. Then just swung the boom over the dock and dropped it right onto a two wheeled dolly. It was definitely one of the easiest jobs I've ever done on my boat.

If any one has any questions, feel free to call or e-mail me.

John Sorensen
913-649-0600 ext 280
jsorensen@budbrown.com

From: JimJoubert@cs.com JimJoubert@cs.com

01/09/99 06:51:28 PM GMT

I am one of those old die-hards that still runs a Palmer P-60 gasoline engine in my Islander 36. Recently, the rear seal on the gearbox has developed an oil leak. I am wondering if anyone in the organization has any expertise/knowledge on replacing this seal?

According to the manuals that I have, it appears that the seal can be replaced easily after the coupler has been removed. What I am wondering is if the coupler can be removed from the gearbox shaft while the engine is in the boat. The prop shaft has a drippless gland which does not allow for a whole lot of room for sliding the prop shaft aft especially while in the water.

And while on the subject of Palmer power, does anyone out there utilize any form of feathering or folding prop with a Palmer P-60 and if so, what kind and size are they using? I am considering replacing a very inefficient two bladed fixed prop and am looking for any advice.

Thanks, Mike Reed, "Islander", Bellingham WA 2reeds@nas.com



Hi Mike! -

We have a 1972 Islander 36 with that oh so popular P-60 engine. When we bought the boat it had a 14" 3 blade Maxprop feathering propeller on it. The top speed we could motor was about 3.5 knots. (Yuck!!!! My laser goes faster in light air) Anyways, after much research into the matter, I found out a few things. The P-60 was never meant to be a very fast engine. The original owner had a 2 blade folding prop on it that did the trick. He was able to motor up to Lake Huron against a 3-4 knot current. The second owners that we bought it from changed it to the Maxprop to get better control. The problem was that it was the wrong size prop (way to large) and with the wrong pitch setting and was not letting the engine develop max HP. Maxprop has suggested the 12" prop set at a pitch of 8. Ours is currently being cut down and re- aligned to that setting. Other than the size, we can't complain about the prop. It can be adjusted to any pitch you wish, of course their are certain recomendations, it automatically feathers itself when the shaft quits spinning. Because of the rotation of the blades, you get the same configuration in reverse as you would in forward, rather than a traditional propeller that just spins the opposite way. This really lets you back up much more powerfully!!!!! If you would like more information on this prop, try PYI.com. They are the Maxprop people. They have been very informative and helpful in handling our oversized prop situation.

As for the Transmission thing, I will run that past my husband. He is Mr. Engine repair guy. Let me know how you do.

Your Islander buddy, Ann McCracken, AMccra2309@aol.com



Mike:

I've done it, and it's an easy job; the seal carrier unbolts from the rear of the tranny and can be taken to the bench to bash out the old one and use the heat and ice trick to carefully insert the new lip seal. But it didn't fix my leak, turns out the oil is passing between the shaft and coupler, not past the lip seal. Anybody got any ideas to cure that, besides replacing the coupler?

I've used a Martec on my Palmer equipped Islander, and wasn't happy, practically no backup power. Also used a standard two blade (Michigan?) and it's a great prop except there's a lot of darg when sailing in light air. I switched to a MaxProp, good backup power, and the adjustability allows one to match the actual horsepower your Palmer's putting out. But switching to a MaxProp involves cutting the threaded end of the shaft short enough to fit into the prop hub nacelle, I'm not sure the others will go back on now. And there's a lot of cavitation noise from the blades from just above idle to about 1300 rpm. And they have to be maintained (refilled with grease every year or so). The auto feather feature is nice, though. Other than that, a good prop. Only the twelve inch Maxprop fitted on my boat, hull clearance problems.

Mark Wyatt, MarkBWyatt@compuserve.com



Hello Mike Reed,

If there is a zinc on the prop shaft between the hull & the strut & it is close to the strut it will limit how far the shaft can be moved towards the stern. It was the problem I had when I tried to install a PSS (prop shaft seal) on our 1982 Islander 36. I had to have the boat hauled out during the yards noon break to do my job. Another idea! If you are a diver or have one handy he can remove the zinc if it is there & then reinstall it when your job is finished.

Good luck, George Widder, hpwid@anacapa.net