August 5-7, 2005 Napa - Benicia - Delta Cruise |
(If you like, you can skip down through the prose and go straight to the pictures below!)
This page is a consolidation of stories from Barb Henderson, Laurie Stover and Rick Van Mell, plus a wonderful separate account by Michael Jefferies.
Just when you'd have like a little wind on San Pablo Bay, the gods decided instead to supstitute lots of sunshine and heat. But at least they also provided a great flood tide to whisk eight Islanders from Southampton Shoals up to the Mare Island bridge by 1230! They were all enroute to Vice Commodore Tim & Rhonda Shea's home in Napa, just off the Napa River, for a Friday kickoff to a Benica weekend and Delta jump-off.
Tim used their 26' Sea Ray to zoom down from the house to the bridge to meet the arriving fleet and guide them safely back. The fleet is captured in pictures below - Islanders look good even under power! Upon arrival, the two Freeports, Evanescence and True North, were Med-moored first, with tim & Rhonda working the stern lines, and Rick using tim's inflatible to nudge bows into place and carry out anchors. Once these two were secure, the rest of the fleet arrived single file and tied alongside. Two more anchors were take out forward, and, when Natural High rafted at the port end of the string, a breast hook was taken out from the bow to complete the moor.
All hands gathered on Tim & Rhonda's grerat deck to enjoy their personal choices swimming pool, hot tub or just nice shade. Their 88' dock was a perfect display platform for the fleet - must have made the neighbors envious!
Friday, 8/5
Bound straight for Benicia on Friday were Harry Farrell, Carol and Michelle Williams and friend Veronica on Pacific High, the Hendersons on Kindred Spirits, and the Meltons on Freedom Won, arriving in early afternoon after a windless and warm journey. Some took walks, the Pacific High crew inflated their kayaks and paddled about, and some took (another) shower.
At 5:00 most got over to Kindred Spirits (Rick Van Mell had driven over from Napa but was hard at work solving a computer problem). Three hors d’oeuvres and 3 bottles of wine disappeared and the concensus was to skip dinner and join up at 8:00 on the balcony of the Benicia Yacht Club, where more liquids were consumed over the next several hours (at least Rick got to join us for that before heading home). By 10:30 it was cool enough to sleep and we adjourned the gab fest.
Saturday 8/6
As the afternoon approached and the temperature soared again, the Dicksons with the delightful Eleanor (11 months old) arrived from Tinsley on Nimbus, and the Damsens joined us by car as we waited to greet and help dock the rest of the group coming from Napa.
Carol set up her snacks and margaritas on B dock in anticipation. About 3:00 or so the remaining 9 boats, including Sheas on their power boat, arrived to make us a party of 13 boats spread out on B, E and the Guest Dock.
An unexpected winery event on the adjacent lawn necessitated a new venue for the kite flying planned for that afternoon by Carol and Harry, so it was shifted to the Harbormaster’s area. Some folks were reluctant in the heat to take that long walk, so Matt Bush and Chris Jefferies ferried them in dinghies; the last hold outs succumbed to the lure of the margaritas which were also transported by dinghy. Some had time for a quick clean up before heading over to the Air Conditioned Club (thank you, BYC) where a buffet of steak, mahi-mahi, potatoes, veggies, fruit and green salads awaited. Prizes were given to father-son team Tim and Ian Shea for kite flying and the dinghy pilots were also rewarded for valor. John Melton celebrated his birthday with a big chocolate cake brought over by sister Pam - which we all got to enjoy, and we sang him Happy Birthday. He really appreciated the big card everyone had signed for him.
As the end of dinner approached, that most important topic came up - what time to leave the next day considering a very early ebb.
Sunday 8/7
By 5:00 a.m., a few lights could be seen inside the Islanders. The Delta crews (Evanescence, True North, Nantucket and Freedom Won) left before 6 a.m. The Sheas would join up with them later. The Hendersons pulled out at 6:00 with about 2 feet of water below the keel and dropping fast, and Zevanovs and most of the others going south soon followed. It was a beautifully colored if chilly dawn with fog on the horizon and a good chop in San Pablo Bay, but smooth going afterward and a fast ride home.
Thanks to Cruise Hosts Harry and Carol, with an assist from Michelle and Veronica, for a heroic effort planning and assembling and lugging everything from kites to jugs of margaritas and lemonade and snacks and prizes in all that heat, and never losing their sense of humor, arranging a delicious dinner at the club, to our Cruise Chairs Laurie and Smokey Stover for their ever present support, and Don Henderson for arranging to get and distribute all those gate keys (you did get them all turned in, folks, right?).
Delta Bound-
Four Islanders, Freedom Won, True North, Nantucket and Evanescence left the Benicia Marina at 0600 hours bound for the delta. This was my first trip on Evanescence to our destination, Hog Island. Smokey has made this trip many times before, alone and always talked about how nice it was. I was looking forward to this new experience.
The sunrise was beautiful as we motor/sailed across Suisun Bay under the Benicia /Martinez Bridge. We all kept an eye on each other checking in by radio periodically. This trip was also a first Delta experience for Neil Leffman on True North and Michael, Jean, Christopher and Andrew Jefferies on Nantucket. I believe John and Nancy Melton of Freedom Won had been to the Delta before. I kept looking for land marks to keep track of our progress. Smokey kept promising me that the seas would “ease up’ once we passed Pittsburg…he was right. We continued our motor/sailing and sailing through False River, around Franks Tract, Old River, past Prisoners Point (hmmm, food for thought), Mandeville Cut, Tinsley Is, and Ward Cut arriving at Hog Island around 3pm. At one point of our trip the GPS noted 9.7 kts of speed (that’s pretty good for a Freeport).
It was Sunday afternoon and the Delta was ripe with all kinds of boaters. Speed, sail, fishing, jet skis you name it they were present. The Shea’s on Lean Times II arrived and took the Jefferies boys aboard for some motor boat exploration while the rest of us prepared for anchoring. We anchored Evanescence first. Smokey was ready with his grapnel anchor on the bow and snagged a decent tree. The stern anchor was deployed. The island has a lot of tree snags worthy of a sturdy bow hook up. We lowered our dingy and Smokey began searching the shoreline for viable bow hook ups for the rest of the boats. One by one Smokey assisted each boat with their anchoring.
After everyone was secured it was time to launch all the dinghy’s and cool off with a swim. We all kicked back enjoyed cool liquid refreshments and planned dinner. Neil invited us all to join him on True North with our BBQ goodies. Just as the sun was going down and the wind had died and all the food was on the BBQ the mosquito’s paid us a visit. We were bombarded by them. Everyone was dancing around the cockpit smacking the little blood suckers on themselves and each other. It was almost as though they were immune to the repellants which we couldn’t slather on us fast enough. Enough was enough. We abandoned ship. It was a mass dinghy exodus as we all took refuge on our own boats leaving most of our dinner behind.
The next few days were spent kicking back reading a book, enjoying the sights and sounds of the delta, great company, fuel filter maintenance, swimming and of course island and slough exploration by dinghy. Visits to Tiki Lagoon for mosquito repellant, ice, popsicles and trash deposits was popular. The mornings were abuzz with calls from Marsh Wrens, Starlings and Woodpeckers. Great Blue Herons and Egrets wadded in the shallows amongst the thick water hyacinths snatching small unsuspecting fish as they swam by. Barn and Cliff Swallows were in full force flying effortlessly above the water, feasting on flying midges and mosquitoes. BIG Bass and Catfish could be seen frequently breaking water just long enough to entice you to grab a fishing rod and try your luck. I caught 4 catfish by rod, one in the crawdad trap. My excitement of catching the fish was contagious and prompted Ian Shea to go fishing. Ian caught his very first catfish, and then some more! Early evening was a nice time for dinghy drives around the sloughs or visiting each other on our boats, especially if you had a wet bar aboard (thank you Neil!). As the sun set, the mosquitoes appeared (we were armed and ready now), and the fish began jumping. A sliver of a moon stood out in the night sky and the call from a Barn Owl could be heard off in the distance.
This was how we spent our three delta days. On Tuesday evening our friend Twig and his dog Boggie arrived in his I36 White Horses and anchored next to Evanescence.
On Wednesday morning, 8/10, at 0600, we all left our peaceful Hog Island anchorage for our home ports. We left Evanescence there under the watchful eye of Twig and Boggie and returned to Alameda on True North with Neil (a 14 hour trip).
On Friday, I drove Smokey and fresh supplies to Tiki Lagoon where Twig was waiting for him in the dinghy. Smokey spent the next week exploring new sloughs, islands and anchorages with Twig. They returned to Alameda on Friday, 8/19 after a leisure trip stopping at Bethel Island, Pittsburg, China Camp and Paradise Cove.
My delta experience... was a great one. The entire weekend beginning with Napa at the Shea's, Benicia and the delta was fantastic.
Michael Jefferies' Story
I have been sailing for over 40 years and during that time I have been involved in two dismastings which were very unpleasant. I have also personally fallen off a boat during a race and helped recover crew from another boat who had fallen overboard during a race. In each situation I learned the importance of team work, quick action, maintaining your cool and being prepared. I have mostly crewed on friends boats and have never had the responsibility of managing my own boat until now. Sailing is a wonderful sport until something goes wrong and then it can be a real test of ones character. My hope is to minimize those tests.
I thought about titling this email August Cruise.... "How Important Team Work Is In Preventing A Sinking", "Are We Having Fun Yet?", "Smokey Is My Hero", "Will My Family Still Sail With Me?, the list goes on.
The Cruise: A Peaceful Beginning
After sorting out different family agendas we agreed that I would single hand our boat from Sausalito to Napa with the fleet where Jean and the boys would link up for the rest of the cruise. I really enjoyed the peace and quiet (and adventure) of the trip up to the Shea's wonderful home on the Napa River. Shortly after arriving, Jean and the boys showed up and in short order the boys were in the pool playing with all the water toys. After stuffing our bellies with BBQ provided by the Shea's and other wonderful dishes of fine cuisine provided by fellow cruisers we retired for the evening.
Our trip the following morning to Benicia was relaxing and our over night stay was enjoyable. Christopher enjoyed playing with our new dingy in the harbor and offering "water taxi" rides to those in need. Both boys had fun flying kites and socializing with the other children on the cruise. Next time we will try to get out and explore the town of Benicia.
The following morning the Delta fleet (Freedom Won, True North, Evanescence and Nantucket) departed Benicia at 0600hrs with Smokey on the point. Our trip through the Suisun Bay was fast and fun with a few opportunities to so some surfing. Smokey then led us through the Delta maze until we reached our destination at Hog Island. With the assistance of Smokey we were all able to secure our boats with bow lines tied to trees/stumps on shore and the setting of a stern anchor. This system required Smokey to do a lot of paddling (huffing and puffing) in his dingy while securing bow lines and anchors.
About an hour prior to our arrival at Hog Island the Shea's pulled along side in their sleek stink potter and both our boys jumped ship while underway and disappeared with the Sheas to parts unknown. After we had all secured our boats the Sheas reappeared and remained with us for a couple of days. Ian and Andrew had several play dates and had a great time being towed behind the speed boat and exploring the Delta. Christopher also joined in on the towing activity and is still talking about it.
Back to the story. As we were nearing Hog Island I noticed that my engine was struggling for fuel and I suspected that my filters needed to be changed. After discussing this problem with Smokey he volunteered to direct me in the process of changing filters the following morning. Fortunately, I had purchased extra filters prior to the trip.
Another digression: prior to settling in for the first night, we all agreed to meet on Neil's boat for a BBQ. As we began to sit down for our dinner we were attacked by swarms of mosquitoes who forced us all to retire to our respective boats for cover and protection instantly. Unfortunately, I think we all left a fair amount of blood and squashed mosquito's on Neil's boat prior to our rapid retreat. The next morning we learned that Neil enjoyed eating all the food that had been left behind in our rush to for cover.
The next morning Smokey came on board and instructed me on how to change my filters and bleed the lines. After a brief test all worked well.
I enjoy working with wood but have never acquired a desire to tinker with mechanical/electrical/plumbing things. Although somewhat elitist, I have always been very willing to hire someone to fix and/or maintain my cars, house plumbing and electrical problems and now my boat. No doubt, that is going to change.
Returning Home: Not So Peaceful...
After spending three relaxing days in the Delta we departed early Wednesday morning for home. All went well as we followed Smokey back through the maze back into Suisun Bay. Within minutes of entering Suisun Bay we knew we were in for a rough ride. I have sailed in some nasty chop over the years and this easily matched the worst crap I have encountered in the past. As we proceeded deeper into the Bay I noticed better conditions closer to shore. Against Smokey's advice I headed into shallower water for some relief. I never went into water shallower than 15' which was acceptable on my comfort meter.
We all slowly worked our way toward Benicia with me in the lead but at about the half way point Jean went down below and stepped into water above the floor boards. After alerting me of this situation I immediately slowed the engine and scrambled down below to find out if the bilge pump was working. At this point I did not know whether I had hit something and damaged the hull or had a problem with a hull fitting or broken hose. We had taken on a lot of water and I was initially unable to determine if the bilge pump was working due to the sound of the wind and water sloshing around. I know that my bilge pump can pump about 2000 gallons of water per hour so concluded that it was inoperative. (At this point, I also briefly began to question my judgment about going inshore and ignoring Smokey's advice) While looking for the source of the leak I assigned Christopher to a bucket and after not finding a hole I began frantically manually pumping water from my cockpit pump station while Jean drove the boat. Within a few minutes we had the water reduced to a point where I was able to open up the engine compartment and continue my search for the leak. With flashlight in hand I located the source at what I now know is the "drip less stuffing box". With Jean at the helm and following my instructions I had her increase the throttle only to discover that with increased power the leak became greater. So, at slow speed we slowly proceeded to Benicia to make repairs. After getting control of the situation we notified John and Nancy (Freedom Won) and Smokey and Laurie who were traveling with Neil (True North) of our problem. It was very comforting to see two I-36's quickly arrive on scene and escort us to Benicia. (especially when you have your family on board). While en route, I made phone contact with KKMI and advised them of my situation.
After arriving safely in Benicia I re-established phone contact with Mike at KKMI (who is their resident Yanmar expert) and he ably talked "mechanical talk" with Smokey who within minutes fixed my so-called "Drip-less Stuffing Box" . Now that I know what caused the leak and how to fix it I'm still not confident that I could have made the repairs in those rough conditions although I know from personal experience that it is amazing what we can all do when we put our minds to the task.. I do know that I had a few other options in dealing with the problem after learning that running the engine was the source of the leak. As to why my bilge pump did not work, this is still a mystery; I am currently working on that issue. I have been vigilant about maintaining a clean bilge and checked my system out as recently as two months ago at the dock. Everything worked well.
After the leak repair we continued on our merry way, frequently checking the bilge for water as we worked our way through San Pablo Bay which was not nearly as gnarly as the Suisun Bay. As we neared the Richmond/San Rafael Bridge our engine began to struggle for fuel again and I realized that with all the turbulence of going through both Bays more debris and crap had been shaken up in my 1984 fuel tank to the point that my filters needed to be replaced again. (I had no extra filters at this point) Again at slow speed I managed to finesse the engine and get the boat back to Sausalito. The engine crapped out just prior to berthing but we carried enough speed to reach our berth.without resorting to other sources of energy.
I learned a lot on this trip including:
1. What a great group of people are in the I-36 fleet.
2. That my family really knew how to work together in a pinch.
3. Clean your fuel tank once in awhile.
4. Make sure your stuffing box is in good order.
5. Make sure your manual bilge pumps are operable.
6. Learn more about the mechanics of your boat.
7. Appreciate sailors like Smokey who are fixers.
8. Carry extra filters.
9. Carry heavy duty mosquito fighting gear when going to the Delta.
10.Make sure your electric bilge pump works...I'm still working on that one.
I could add a few more observations to this list but I think that is enough. In spite of this experience, we really enjoyed ourselves and look forward to more sailing with a great group of folks. Thanks again for everything. We have some pictures to attach in the near future.
Michael Jefferies
Pictures are compliments of Paparazzi extrordinaire Lou Zevanov, Barbara Henderson, Rhonda Shea, Smokey Stover, Neil Lefmann and Rick Van Mell.
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