Pictures by Tom Embertson. Click on images to enlarge, click "Back" to return.

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Picture #161 Chart table with CD changer, Raymarine E80, VHF Radio, and CD player with Sirius Satellite Radio

Picture #162 Sirius Weather Receiver for Raymarine E80, Raymarine Network Switch, Raymarine autopilot course computer, Raymarine depth sounder module for E80

Picture #152 Raymarine E80 display, ST60 Plus instruments including: Tridata (speed, depth, log), Wind, Close Hauled, and Autopilot Control Head

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Picture #163: This is my version of an upgrade suggested in a previous posting about adding a door to the electrical panel to prevent inadvertent switch actuation while accessing the quarter berth. I put in two 12V DC panels, one 120V AC panel, an AC ammeter, a windlass circuit breaker, and the dedicated battery switches.

Picture #164: I also added another 12V DC panel under the chart table. I also have a bilge alarm and two bilge pump switches.

I either have too many circuits, too much junk on the boat, or too much time. Either way, I enjoy the end result.

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The wheel mounted autopilot never did a satisfactory job of holding a good course in a following sea or varying wind conditions. Since I needed another project after the long winter, I decided to add a below deck autopilot.

The epoxy coated board that holds the actuator and rudder reference transducer is bolted to part of the wheel steering assembly on one end, and glassed to the hull on the other. After turning myself into a pretzel one hot day, I found that this arrangement gives solid support, ease of installation, easy maintenance and a place to store my fuel additive in the blue bottle.

I originally had a rudder reference transducer as part of my ST60 rudder angle display, so had already fabricated a tiller arm for it. If I was starting from scratch, I would attach the rudder reference to the actuator tiller arm.

I designed and fabricated the tiller arm out of aluminum. It is attached with a split clamp around the circumference of the rudder post (similar to the other arm shown above) and also through bolted. The long slot in the arm is to allow the installation of the bolt, since access is not available from the other side. The exact location of the bolt is critical to allow the rudder to turn equally in both directions with the limited travel of the actuator. The overall travel of the actuator is a little short to get the original total travel of the rudder, but the minimal difference is not noticeable. I did add aluminum blocks to the quadrant so they will hit the rudder stops slightly sooner. This prevents the actuator from acting as the rudder stop. You can see part of one aluminum block under the hose beneath the blue bottle.

Picture #162 shows the location of the course computer. I located the fluxgate compass, also part of the system, below the cabin sole on the first stringer aft of the mast.

I am now able to sail totally hands free in any kind of weather or point of sail. It is truly amazing how well it works. I have been at this sailing thing for 28 years and really find no need to stand at the wheel in cold or rainy weather. Sitting under the dodger while keeping a lookout in bad weather, or sitting at the bow with a remote control in nice weather, makes the project worth the time and expense.

I would be happy to give further details, additional pictures and drawings to anyone interested.

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I installed this bearing after I added a below deck autopilot. The autopilot tiller arm is mounted above the quadrant and puts more load on the original fiberglass tube serving as the upper bearing. There was a lot of wobble with this design. Since my wife accuses me of trying to find boat projects, I had to live up to that and design a solution to the wobble problem. I originally looked at existing bearing assemblies offered by several manufacturers, but did not like the idea of having to drop the rudder for the installation or have to rework that portion of the deck.

Picture #155: Finished upper bearing

Picture #156: This shows the rudder post and bearing. The original emergency rudder access plate was removed. The plate and journal you see was machined out of a single piece of aluminum. The black surface is a greased delrin plastic bearing pressed onto the aluminum piece. This fits inside the rudder post to create the completed bearing. The finished diameter of the bearing was determined by the inside diameter of the rudder post. I allowed for honing the inside of the post to end up with a precise fit that will stop the slop and still not cause binding. The inside of the post was not perfectly round, so the honing also fixed that problem which makes for a better bearing surface.

Because the post is angled relative to the deck surface, I had to place the bearing assembly in place, add shims, drill the screw clearance holes, and install the screws. I adjusted the shims until there was no binding and then filled the gap on the aft and side surfaces with an epoxy filler. This made a solid surface for the bearing top plate. I removed the shims, filled the holes where the shims were, greased the bearing, added sealant to the screw holes and completed the assembly. If access to the post is required, it is just a matter of removing a few screws and the bearing comes right out.

I would be happy to give further details, additional pictures and drawings to anyone interested.

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I do ASA sailing instruction on my boat in the summer and have had too many students shift the transmission without dropping the throttle. I had to rebuild my transmission once (not because of students), and did not want to do that project again.

The lever is from Teleflex and made for sailboats. I built a teak box and attached to the mount for my cockpit table. The transmission and throttle cables pass through a 1.25" stainless tube coming out of the bottom of the box and attached to the cockpit floor. The cables were simply removed from the levers on the pedestal and attached to the single lever control. My particular setup did not require any modification of the cables. I removed the old controls, but keep them on board in case the single lever breaks, which is unlikely.

I think this is one of the most useful and easiest upgrades I have done.

The blue grid is a product I purchased at Boat/US years ago. It really hides the dirt and imperfections in the cockpit. You can find the product at http://www.tepromark.com.

The outside teak is finished with Sikkens Cetol, the inside is original. Every spring I wipe down the inside with a product I used to find at Boat/US. West Marine used to carry it, but dropped the line. I found the supplier at: Williamsville Products-Cabin Wood Care 800-682-0034

I would be happy to give further details, additional pictures and drawings to anyone interested.

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Picture #157: Finished installation of shroud upgrade. The toggle is a purchased item, the plate and tang is a stainless weldment.

Picture #158: This shows the bolts coming up from the weldment with self-locking nuts. A clearance hole was drilled through the deck to the top surface of the backing plate that the original chainplate is welded to. The hole is just large enough to accommodate a socket. A clearance hole is drilled into the backing plate for the bolt coming up from underneath. The hole is then filled with epoxy. Not shown is a stainless plate that covers the holes and replaces the original plate.

Picture #159: This shows the finished installation. The round rod serves as the turnbuckle by having a left hand thread on one end and a right hand thread on the other end. The purchased toggles are threaded to each end. There also is a newly cut access hole in order to attach the bulkhead and assemble the parts.

Picture #160: This shows the added bulkhead and the backing plate for the new chainplate attached to the other side. The new chainplate ends just below the surface maximize the height of the bulkhead and still allow room for the toggle. You can see the upper end of the chainplate at the top of the bulkhead.

The starboard side is similarly designed. My boat has the hinged bunk, so I designed the upgrade to allow the round rod to pass through the hinge area. I still have the original functionality of the bunk. The angle of the port and starboard rods are almost identical, so it looks symmetrical.

This design totally transfers the load from the original chainplate directly to the hull. The deck no longer carries any of the load.

I would be happy to give further details, additional pictures and drawings to anyone interested.

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I find the extra storage space to come in very handy. This is not my original idea and must give credit to a fellow I36 owner from the area.

This project is fairly straightforward. The steps are removed and approximately a 1" strip is cut off. The hinges are added and the strips then attached to the box. You then have to close in the area under the steps into two separate compartments. I would suggest building the compartments before the steps are reattached.

I would be happy to give further details, additional pictures and drawings to anyone interested.

Of course the reason to do all this is to have fun going sailing. Here's a shot of action on Lake Superior in the summer of 2006. Enjoy!

Getting wet on Superior